We are sitting on the ferry from Havelock Island to Port Blair – a gently rocking journey from one of the last tourist outposts in this part of the world to a bustling city full of naval officers, anthropologists, government officials, businessmen, and tourists. In many ways, this feels like a sad transition. As Ryan put it, Matsya Resort and Havelock Island in general had come “to feel like home.” It’s hard to leave home after only a few days. But we’re leaving with a lot of memories, a few sunburns, full bellies, new friendships, a growing understanding of what makes this part of the world so unique, and a lot of questions that will frame our investigation of the subcontinent proper. This first week of the trip was a prepping of the soil. Sad as it is, it’s also a joyous moment. We’re heading to the actual home of Suman, our Indian group member. We’re heading to the heart of the Himalayas. We’re on the way to the core of CCS’ Global Education Program.
As we get more and more excited to move on, it’s important to share some anecdotes from and reflections on our time out here so far. We’ll look back on this later in the trip and remember the starting point.
The World is Big – When you come to a place like the Andaman Islands, the scale of the world is evident. Looking out from Beach #7, often considered the finest beach in Asia, it’s impossible not to feel small. The towering mountains of the middle islands loom in the distance. The open expanse of the Indian Ocean crashes directly onto the beach. Behind you, towering virgin forest provides shade even on the sand. It feels like you’re on the edge of an enormous world.
The World is Small – As Harrison highlighted in his blog post, the world is also small. The rhythms and routines of life are mirrored across the globe. Way out on the Andaman Islands, tea and coffee gave us energy. The crystal clear water welcomed us, just as it does back on the Chesapeake Bay. Our hosts shared stories of the human experience of making a business on Havelock. It sounded awfully familiar. The little village on the island has some Urbanna-like qualities. If we are all more similar than different, the world is less of a separation and more of a coming together. It’s awfully easy to feel at home on the other side of the world.
Action is Needed – Out here, the pressures on the environment and the local way of life are evident. Plastic trash is everywhere – on uninhabited islands, the world-renowned beaches, sidewalks and roads, and in every forest you walk through. One of the most untouched places you can fly to commercially is covered in the evidence that we need to do something about our way of living. Our detritus is choking the natural world. The pace of development to provide for tourists and other visitors is also outstripping the resources. Power is unreliable. Water goes in and out. Fruit and vegetables are in high demand. Productive reefs are producing fewer and fewer fish. We need to do something to ensure that future generations can see what we saw and do everything we did. It’s evident.
Solutions will be Shared – Distant as they are, the Andaman Islands are a melting pot. Local tribal groups have been out here for at least 60,000 years, living relatively untouched lives. Some of them continue to fight off the outside world, most notably the North Sentinelese. But mostly those tribal groups have been contacted and incorporated into a world now controlled by the Indian Government. And thousands of people from Burma, Bangladesh, Bengal, Bangalore, New Delhi, and all over the subcontinent have come to join them. Everything on the islands is a blend. And so too will the solutions be. Our students can join a world that is more connected, collaborative, and aligned than ever. Despite the tone of our politics and the tensions around the world, these islands reveal a true opportunity for very different people to come together to solve common problems.
India’s Time is Here – It’s obvious when you’re on the Andaman Islands that India’s economic, political, and social influence on the world is starting to build into a wave that will spread everywhere. 95% of the tourists on the Andaman Islands are from the Indian middle class. 15 years ago, hardly 25% were. People are wearing Indian brands and consuming Indian snacks. The billboards that used to feature people who looked more or less European are now promoting people who look undoubtedly from here. Bollywood movies, TV shows, and music are the main attraction. And India is asserting itself. The islands have become a major military hub to compete with China’s development in nearby seas. The government is building one of the world’s largest shipping ports on Great Nicobar, just south of us. Soon, goods will pass through Indian territory on a scale that will rival almost anywhere. And these islands, the “jewels of the sea,” are a statement of pride. India will protect at least some portion of them because they can then claim something that is more pristine, more unique, and more special than almost anywhere else. It is time for everyone to take this place seriously. Our students have been immersed in a place that will matter for a long time.
There is Always More to Learn – I have been lucky to visit the Andaman Islands for almost 15 years. It is an incredible place. The water remains full of some of the best fishing in the world – we’ve landed 72 species and on this trip several students set their personal best for big fish and number of species in a day. For me, coming here is a chance to learn something new every time. The students and my co-leaders help me see this place from a new angle with each visit. This time, Isaiah helped me understand the trees and flowers. Harrison helped me understand the boats in a new way. Lillian helped me compare the islands to Senegal and Guatemala and the mainland. Kalea helped me think about perspective when she took exceptional pictures of Matsya. Will helped me think about the persistence of a good fisherman. Reverend Farrington helped me imagine the good in the world through her appreciation for the hospitality of our hosts. Suman helped me think about change. Ryan helped me see the humor in the people. Scotty helped me remember how quickly minds can open. Via helped me appreciate the animals in a new way. Ozzy got me excited about manta rays. Brady reminded me in his blog post about the power of perspective. And, in all of it, a simple truth was made clear – there is always more to learn. If we open our eyes and adhere to a structure of investigation, the world is there to be studied.
We have a lot of big questions to ask and goals to achieve as a group:
Ryan – within the confines of this trip, how does life on the island in every form (the way the islands operate) compare to a city like Delhi or a small town like Agora. How do these different places operate within the structure of one government. How do the people behave? How does the local government act? What are the overarching similarities of “being Indian?”
Scotty – I don’t want to hike, but I do want to bond with my peers and learn from them. I want to continue to get to know everyone here through the process of meeting other people and seeing new places. There is a lot to learn about ourselves even while we explore a new place.
Harrison – I am looking forward to seeing a unique culture in Agora and the differences in the stories between the fishermen I spent time with on the islands and those who make their lives off the land in Agora. How are lives really different? How do the places where people live change their way of life? I want to take what I wrote about in my blog post and really explore that idea that the world is full of common stories.
Will – How do people find solace or meaning in what they do in northern India? Is it habits or patterns? What objectives are people really chasing in their lives? How can I think about my own goals through the ones I hear about in the mountains? I want to ask people what connections they feel to the place where they are. How do they place themselves in nature? Are they a part of it or above it? How can we live a simple, fulfilling life? What do the people we get to meet think is the most important thing to creating a functional community? How can a group of people create peace?
Kalea – I want to know what traditions people follow. In America, it feels like traditions are optional at best. They don’t feel universal in all parts of the country – so, here, what is the basis of the culture that seems so strong? How do people find enjoyment in their lives? What do they do to relax and have fun? I have this assumption that people work nonstop. How do they rest? What does that look like? How can I take the idea of traditions, mental breaks, and happiness within the culture here back with me? How can I continue to avoid taking things for granted. I also want to learn more about farming here because I don’t really see people focusing on this essential task back home. Can I learn to do real, natural, organic farming? I know I don’t want 3D printed food…. The way of life in Agora has been around for hundreds and hundreds of years longer than our society – how can it seem so much more sustainable than our obviously unsustainable ways? What role does education play? I have been homeschooled, attended public school, and now am part of CCS. What do local people think is important to teach? How does that compare to our goals?
Ozzy – I am excited for the chance to see modern India, for exploring the mountains on foot, for no longer feeling hot, for talking with villagers about their lives, and generally exploring. My big questions are – what is Bollywood all about? What does India pop culture look like? How is the environment in the Himalayas impacted by tourism? How does that compare to what we saw out here on the islands? Also, how much more good food is there?? This trip has changed my opinion.
Via – Mostly, my big question is about what drives people here to continue to strive for positive change despite all the odds? What motivates people within their community? How do they stick together?
Lillian – A question a lot of people ask me about these trips is – which one is my favorite? I usually take the easy way out and just tell them they’re all different. But I want this last trip to be an ode to Global Ed. Sure, every place is different. The locations, the climates, the cultures. But there’s a similar aspect to all of them. The people. The amazing people who make the world seem accessible to us. So I want to keep reflecting on that. How have these experiences changed me? How have the people in small villages changed me? Why do I keep coming back? I want to be introspective as I look and reach out this last time. The smile of Kecouta and the smile of Suman fill my heart. How can I think through that heart? I haven’t seen Suman in two years, and yet our reconnection was instant. My time with Kecouta is filled with a language barrier but we are like part of the same family. Why? I want to keep exploring what my place in the world is. How can these places and people make me feel more like myself than how I feel back home? I want to try to understand myself.
Brady – I am excited to hike and to experience the scale of the mountains. I want to feel how big this country is. I also want to see the wildlife and compare it to my backyard. I want to mentally compare the differences between living on the islands and living in the mountains. I think I’ll do that a lot through farming. How can farming be a window into the different lives? How can I compare farms from Middlesex to the Andamans to Agora? And what else fills their economy? Tourism? Who comes? Who pays? And how does Hinduism fit in? I feel like I am just starting to get pieces of the puzzle.
Isaiah – I am really curious about music in the mountains. We didn’t get to hear much music on the islands but I imagine it’s pretty traditional. I want to try to meet local musicians and see how they use music. Music is a big part of my life and I want to try to see how it fits in here. And maybe also some dancing. Suman is telling me a lot about the rasu dance and other ways they use music in Agora.

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